Aside

As an aside, I got a letter from TPWL and my application was approved!  It didn't even need to be bonded.  I sent off the check for $101 and will get the title and stickers in the mail.  That will make the boat a boat and not just parts.  :)

Update:  Got the stickers, still waiting for the title.

Update #2:  Got the title!!!

I did a bottom job on the hulls patching one gauge, and this weekend will be putting on the tramp.  I'll put 3M 4200 on the pylons and castings before tightening everything up and making sure that the hulls are trued up.  That should keep everything tight without having to fiberglass the castings to the pylons...  Then, it'll be a test sail!

Update #3:  Tightened the tramp.  A couple of tips:

1. True the boat so that the distance between the port tang and the starboard rudder pin is the same as the distance between the starboard tang and the port rudder pin.  This can be done by applying ratchet straps between the fore pontoon on one pontoon and the aft pontoon on the other (and vice versa) so that you can tighten and loosen the boat so that the pontoons are true.  Do this before tightening the tramp.
2. Apply lots of dish washing detergent inside the rails and on the edge of the tramp.  This allows the tramp to slide easier as it is being tightened, increasing the smoothness of the tramp.  I can never get the edges quite smooth, but this was the best so far! 
3. Apply 3M 5200 liberally to the pylons and the inside of the castings before you tighten the tramp.  With the tramp loose, it is easy to take the castings off of the pylons.  After truing the boat and tightening the tramp, the adhesive caulk will cure helping to freeze the frame in place.  You could do the same with epoxy resin that's been thickened with filler, you'd just have to watch for drips or perhaps tighten the tramp with the Hobie 16 upside down.
4. Pre-bend the side rails by applying a ratchet strap across the frame of the boat.  As you're tightening the tramp, keep tightening the ratchet strap.  Eventually you can release the ratchet strap when the tramp is tight enough to keep the side rails bowed in an inch or so on both sides.
5. Tighten the tramp lacing by hand initially, then switch to a water meter key (what you use to turn the main water line off and on in your yard.)  I use painters tape on the handles as well as the "U" at the bottom to protect the line from chafing.  You can really get the tramp tight using this tool with minimal effort and with minimal hand cramping!